Make tartar sauce: Stir all the sauce ingredients together, taste, adjust lemon or seasoning, and refrigerate until serving.
Set up: Place a wire rack over a sheet pan. Heat about 2 inches of frying oil in a heavy, deep pot (no more than one-third full) to 350–365°F.
Dry and season fish: Drain fully thawed cod, blot very dry on all sides with paper towels, cut into four pieces, and season with ¾ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon black pepper.
Mix batter: Whisk the flours, baking powder, salt, paprika, garlic powder, and pepper. Whisk in 1 cup of very cold beer or club soda and hot sauce until just combined. Add a little more cold liquid if needed for a thick, pourable consistency.
Dredge and batter: Dust each cod piece lightly in the ⅓ cup flour, shaking off extra. Dip in batter, let excess drip away, and move directly into hot oil.
Fry fish: Fry 1–2 pieces at a time for about 4–6 minutes depending on thickness, adjusting the heat to keep oil near 350–365°F. Remove when golden and the fish is cooked through to 145°F. Drain on the rack and sprinkle lightly with salt.
Fry frozen fries: Increase oil to about 375°F, or use package temperature. Fry the fries straight from frozen, in small batches, usually 3–5 minutes for regular-cut fries or according to the package. Drain and salt immediately.
Serve: Put the hot fish and chips on plates with lemon wedges and the chilled sweet pickle tartar sauce.